Q&A: Skincare: Peroxide

Breelyn asks: I have used peroxide on my face before and it didnt do anything to my face, but today after I washed my face, I applied the peroxide, and where I applied it, my face became red — but it didnt do that last time.  Am I allergic?

Massagewallah answers:

Were you using plain topical peroxide or a benzoyl peroxide (bp) solution? I wouldnt recommend using just plain peroxide for your face, as it is too harsh for the skin, esp if you are under 18yo.

If you were using bp, redness is a common side effect. If you use the gel or the liquid, just apply where ness. If you are using a creme it is possible to use all over, but try to use only on the effected area.

Another prob could be the dosage and the length of time you left it on. If you are under 18 dont leave it on for more then 10sec. If you dont see any results leave on for longer, not to exceed 25-30 seconds.

Remember that perioxide combats acne vulgaris by drying out the oil in the pore. The reddening indicates inflamation of the top layers of the dermis and/or pores.

It is possible that you could be hypersensative (allergic) to peroxide, so you might need to eliminate peroxide therapy or just reduce the concentration.

This could also be a possible negative reaction to other drugs that you might be using e.g. isotretinoin, clindamycin, etc. Check w. yr pharmicist to if you are using other medications.

Also do not use benzoyl peroxide on sunburned, windburned, dry, chapped, or irritated skin or on open wounds, as this could further irriate the skin, perhaps causing this redness that you are refering to.
—Avoid abrasive, harsh, or drying soaps and cleansers while using benzoyl peroxide
—Avoid combining PABA-containing sunscreens and benzoyl peroxide.

Q&A: Skincare: Milia

xopiink523 asks: What is Milia, and how do I get rid of it?  I’ve had it on my arms for the last few years.

Massagewallah answers: 

Milia is really common on the upper arms and shoulders. Primary milia can form due to improperly formed oil ducts that have not fully developed.

Exfoliating the skin, or removing the dead skin cells from your skin with an abrasive product or chemical, is beneficial. But brutally scrubbing your arms with soaps and chemicals too frequently may actually create milia. This gentle exfoliation helps make eventual removal of the milia easier because the skin layer around the milia becomes thinner, with frequent, yet gentle exfoliation. In short, Exfoliate your skin to prevent milia, not to cure them.

The best way to prevent milia is to avoid treating your skin with excessively harsh chemicals and to limit sun exposure.
Use a sunscreen with the least amount of ingredients. Extraneous ingredients like fragrances may irritate your skin. Additionally, purchase sunscreens that offer physical sun blockage that contain active ingredients like titanium oxide or zinc oxide.

The key to getting rid of milia is realizing that they have no escape route, those little bumps are trapped under the skin. So, to get them out, you’ll need to have a professional like a dermatologist or aesthetician extract them.

Q&A: Skin Care: Glycolic Acid

Becky asks: Has any one used glycolic acid on your face?  Did it work? What all did it do for you and what results did you get?

Massagewallah answers:

Glycolic acid is an Alpha Hyrdroxy Acid (AHA) and is a popular method of chemical exfoliation, due to its excellent capability to penetrate deep down in your skin.

Chemical exfoliation (vs mechanical) gives a much more complete removal of dead skin cells, not only removing them from the surface, but also from within the pores, ducts and follicles of the skin. Chemical exfoliants do not cause bruising or tearing of the skin and if used properly and in the correct dossage should not irritate, either.

You can get a low dosage cleanser w. Glycolic in it at a drug store or skin care shop, like Sephora. There are also “at home peels, available as well.

I recommend getting a glycolic peel done by a licensed aesthetician or dermatologist FIRST, before attempting at home care. Plus they will also have higher concentrated dosage at the (med) spa.

There are contraindications to AHA peels such as: use of accutane, oral herpes, pregnancy, sunburn, sun sensativity, etc.

If you are looking for something to assist with acne, Salicylic Acid (BHA) products better.

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As for glycolic acid working, yes it does, and I personally use a daily low dose treatment, with alternating peels (AHA/BHA) every other month.

If you are under 16 I wouldnt recommend starting a AHA regimen just yet. But ask your local aesthetician.

Stay hydrated and wear sunscreen (esp when using a AHA product)!

oil slick: Close shaves no longer require getting into a lather

Conventional wisdom holds that oil is not good for a face. Not so, I’ve discovered. Recently I took a job that required grown-up grooming and at sunup, eyeing my steel-wool chin, found I felt especially unindustrious. I wanted something easy, something that didn’t require what anyone would call a routine: a lazy man’s shave. Enter shave oils. These can be used with or without a cream (I, of course, went without) and perk up the hairs on your face while making your skin loose and elastic—creepy dermatological talk for practically unsliceable. I got the best shave ever, without those red bumps on my neck that I used to worry would bleed out onto my collar while I tied my tie. The price of these oils might seem foolhardy to some, and I am told that they wear blades out quickly, but I certainly won’t miss the meringue that bursts from most foaming cans. The ability to see the curves—or crags—of your face while trying not to fillet it is a stunning revelation, one that quickly seems eminently sage. 

(Reposted from Men’s Vogue)

I like Zirh’s Pre-shave oil which is “designed to soften facial hair and reduce friction while shaving. This helps prevent razor burn and provides the closest shave possible”.

Basic Skincare FYIs

Sun damage is the biggest cause of skin aging, not to mention a host of other diseases, like skin cancer.  Here are a few things to do to keep safe.  Staying away from the sun during peak burning hours 11am-4pm makes a significant difference in how much you damage your skin.

Sunblock is as vital to your skin as toothpaste is to your teeth!  Sunblock needs to be worn all the time, not just when you are on the beach.  The sun is out when you are driving/walking to work/school, running errands, even indoors (uva rays can pentrate glass) – so w/o adequate sun protection you are at risk of getting some damage.  Even in the winter, make an effort to protect yourself.

Before you leave the house each morning, apply at least a teaspoon sized portion to your bare face and give it time to absorb, a spf of 30 is a good selection.  Did you know that your clothing offers some basic SPF protecion?  White offers about 5-7spf, while black can offer up to 20.

While wearing a makeup base w. a nice spf, it is still good to use a seperate sunscreen, as the protection in makeup doesnt last very long.

Stop smoking! Smoking causes a decreased flow of oxygen and nutrients to your facial tissue, among other dermatological problems, and turns the skin sallow, pale, and a certain shade of gray.  Plus smokers tend to get more blackheads, bc the pores tend to be dilated, owing to a decrease in collagen in the skin.  At the very least, remember that smokers lips tend to be continuously prused, causing lines on the upper and lower lip lines.

Nutrition. Vitamins and natural antioxidants found in food, such as tomatoes and green tea (not the starbucks green tea frap!), to name just a few, help the skin to stay healthy and functioning properly.  Antioxidant-rich food such as carrots, citrus fruits, and broccoli are great choices. WATER! At least 64oz/day, is a very crucial aspect of keeping your skin hydrated and glowing.   Try to keep your body in good shape, as your overall health often manifests itself in your face.

Sleep! The body and skin recharges itself at night, and secretes much needed hormones to retore the skin cells and build them nicely.  I am sure you see those zombies w/ dark circles under their eyes and their dull skin – combat them w. your zzzzs!  By getting enough sleep at night you will be able to see your beautiful reflection in the mirror.

Stress! Stress produces cortisol, a hormone that if overproduced can produce excessive damage to our bodies, including weight gain, and is considerd a leading cause in premature aging.  Plus, constant scowing can lead to premature wrinkling.

Pollution.  Prolonged exposure can reduce your Vit E levels by 25%, can clog pores, and increase acne.

Care for your skin and you will be rewarded with lovely skin!

NiteSpa in Daily Candy

July 8, 2005
Dialing Under the Influence
nitespa!

Late-night urges are the worst.Keebler binges. Infomercial-fueled shopping sprees. And, of course, the highly unsuitable booty call.

Next time you find yourself wanting to drink and dial, think about giving Nitespa a ring.

The beach bungalow spa is open from noon until midnight seven days a week. Kitted out with vintage furniture and sweet pink, vanilla, and chocolate brown hues, the space is cozy and Neapolitan. Treatments include massages, facials, nails, waxing, and makeup application. Services are by appointment, as are private parties (the in-house DJ really comes in handy).

All perfect for catering to the nocturnal beauty needs of busy bees, latey birds, and anyone who wants a little after-dark TLC.

The kind you won’t regret the morning after.
Nitespa, 1301 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, at Santa Clara Court, Venice (310-396-5122 or nitespa.com).